Destination Pearl River Delta  
April 13, 2007 03:30 PM

Island Idyll

The antidote to summer's oppressive humidity is but a ferry ride away – in Jiangmen's Chuan islands

Summertime in Guangdong is no picnic. But when the temperatures start to soar, there is one part of the heavily industrialized province that still manages to refresh: Jiangmen. With much of the area still given over to cultivation, Jiangmen soothes the eye with its abundance of green attractions even when the heat oppresses. Even better, it has offshore islands with sandy beaches and cooling sea breezes. Time your visit right, and you'll even escape the madding crowds.

On weekdays, the latte-like sands of Wangfuzhou, on Taishan's offshore Lower Chuan Island, are deserted – even during peak season – until about five o'clock in the afternoon when a handful of farmers and fishermen arrive after a hard day's work in the fields or at sea for a refreshing dip. Come the weekend, it's a different story, with holidaymakers from throughout Guangdong province descending on the sands in droves. There's little to be seen in the way of bronzed flesh, however. Sun-worshipping hasnít yet caught on in this part of China. Most come to sightsee and take pictures, but for those with a taste for more active pursuits, Wangfuzhou offers paragliding, snorkeling and motor-boating. There are also sand rovers, jet skis and banana boats for rent. Boat trips to nearby islands are another option.

Visitors don't have to go far for food and entertainment. The beach is lined with indoor and outdoor restaurants, cafes, beer gardens and karaoke lounges, many of which remain open until the wee hours. Fireworks occasionally light up the night sky.

The 20-minute drive from the pier to Wangfuzhou – home to more than 40 mostly nondescript hotels and guest houses – takes you past isolated villages and farming communities, where water buffalo still till the fields. The road continues up through pine-studded mountains and down through verdant valleys dotted with bamboo groves before arriving at the island's premiere accommodation: The Azure Bay Resort (pictured above). The resort, which opened last year, is the first truly international-standard hotel in this neck of the PRD, featuring manicured gardens, tennis courts, a swimming pool, gymnasium, barbecue area, fruit orchards, cabaret, karaoke lounge, tea house, and Chinese and Western open-air dining rooms.

Nearby Upper Chuan Island is more rustic, with extensive forests of cypress, bamboo and pine, and about 20 unspoiled beaches to explore. Those looking for more active diversions can try sailing, fishing and hiking. Accommodation is fairly basic, with several unremarkable hotels and guesthouses lining Feisha Beach. The recently opened Liu Gan Kai Xuan Hotel – while not in the same league as the Azure Bay Resort – is the best of the lot. Dining al fresco along the waterfront is one of the islandís top attractions – as is a massive outdoor karaoke venue. The islandís primary claim to fame, however, is a Portuguese-style chapel built in memory of St Francis Xavier, who converted more Chinese people to Christianity than anyone since St Paul. Committed sightseers take note: it's located at the end of a dusty red dirt road in an isolated corner of the island, far off the beaten tourism track.

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